Boot or shoe and process of making the same



Jan. 27. 1925. 1,524,489

. c. s. RICHARDS BOOT OR SHOE' AND PROCESS OF MAKING THE SAME Filed May 1.6, 1924 m im mmmm Patented J an. 27, 1925.

UNITED STATES 1,524,489 PATENT OFFICE.

. CUTHBERT S. RICHARDS, OF IBROOKLINE, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOR TO HARRY W.

CROOKER, OF BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS. -A

BOOT 0R SHOE AND PROCESS 0F MAKING THE SAME.

Application filed May 16,

To all whom t may concern:

Be it known that I, CUTHBERT S. RICHARDS, a subject of the King' of Great Britain, residing at Brookline. in the county of Norfolk and State of Massachusetts, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Boots or Shoes and Processes of Making the Same, of which the following is a speciication.

vThis invention relates to boots and shoes designed for the corrective treatment of` the foot and more particularly tothe manufacture of boots and shoes having an insole adapted tothe relief of such y`infirmities as require special support of the metatarsal and longitudinal arches of the foot. Accordingly the invention comprehends a novel insole, a boot or shoe having such insole as a feature, and the process of making the insole and the boot or shoe in whlch it is incorporated.

Itis a particular object of the present 1n'- vention to produce a shoe which may be worn with relief by persons having such foot infirmities as Morton toe, metatarsalgia and the like, due to weakness of the transverse arch of the foot, but which is so constructed that relief may also be obtained from pes planus, due to weakness of the longitudinal arch, popularly known as flatfoot. Frequently the same patlent requlres correction for bo-th infirmities and this is provided forby the present invention.

Vith this object in view an lmportant feature of the invention contemplates a type of shoe having provision for the relief of one or .more of the inrmities referred to, as may be requisite in any particular case, Without change in its design. This is accomplished by buildinginto the shoe`an insole so constructed that the salesman in the shoe store may manipulate it and'combine with it such corrective elements as may be necessary to suit the particular requirements of the prospective purchaser.

More particularly a pocket is providedin the insole having a mouth, readily accessible after the shoe has been built, and into which a pad, arch supporter other corrective element may be thrust as may be required. The size of the pocket is such that. the remedial pad or other support may be correctly positioned to relieve the particular inrmity of the wearer of the shoe, and the proper longitudinal location 0f thel correct- -plane that would 1924. Serial No. 713,845.

ive element is determined by a definite limitation of the forward end of the pocket.

To the accomplishment of the above ob- ]ect and such others as may hereinafter appear, as will be understood from the following description by those skilled in the art, the invention comprises the features and combinations of parts, together with the novel process of manufacture, hereinafter described and then particularly pointed out in the appended claims'.

The preferred form of the yinvention is illustrated in the accompanying drawing in which,

Figure hl is a view of the novel shoe, in cross section, with a remedial pad associated with the'insole. This view is taken on a pass through the 'meta-1 tarsal pocket of a left foot.

Fig. 2' represents a cross section through the shank of the novel shoe, the muth of the remedial pad pocket being shown opened by lifting the inner margin of the insole.

Fig. 3 is a `vie-w of the rib side of one type of insole (that for a left shoe being shown) that may be employed, the curved dotted line indicating dry-thread stitching which forms the forward limit-ation of a pocket for receiving the remedial pads. In this view a remedial pad and a steel shank areboth shown with the pocket by a dotted .line, but they may be used independently each of the other,

Fig. 4 1s a view of the grain side, or sock face ofl the insole shown in Fig. 2.

`In this view another type of remedial pad is lshown within the pocket bounded forwardly by the dry-threadv stitching,

Fig. 5 1s a View, in cross section, throu h the shank of the type of insole shown y` Fig. 3, illustrating certain steps of its manufacture,

Fig.y 6 is a view, similar to Fi 5, illustrating a further step in manu acture of said insole, and

Fig. 7 is a perspective view of one type of remedial pad.

In the embodiment of the invention illustrated in the drawing the Goodyear welt type of shoe is shown havin incorporated therein a reinforced insole o the Economy type, and this type of shoe will be utilized to explain the nature and purpose of thel invention. Those skilled in the'art will recognize, however, that the/novel features of the invention may be embodied in otherl ltypes of shoes', or in Goodyear welt shoes having vother types of reinforced, manufactured or other laininted insoles.

The novel insole will be described first,

' and then its manner of incorporation in the completed Economy type insole,- such as is isi disclosed in Letters Patent of the United 'States to Albert E. Johnson, No. 849,245,

dated April 2, 1907, it will'be observed that the body 10 of the insole Vis provided with a marginal rib 12 throughout the shank and fore part as is requisite in the manufacture ofGoodyear welt shoes. The blank is fitted by producing a marginal lip 14 and a arallel marginal. channel flap 16 joined at t eir bases to the between-substance 15. The lip and flap in the usual process of manufacture are then raised, cemented together and finally reinforced by the application of a sheet of reinforcing material 20, such as cotton duck, to the ribbed face of the insole. In the present instance before the upstanding rib 12 is formed, the channel flap, preferably at the inner side of the shank, is slitl twice transversely conveniently while still lying in the channel. One slit 18 (dotted line Fig. 3) is formed slightly to the rear of the inner endy of the ball line, and the other slit 19 is formed a short dis` tance in, advanceof the innervend of the breast line. When the rib forming operation occurs the portion 16 of the channel nap, between the slits 18 and 19, is not ralsed. This portion of the channel flap still remains lying inthe channel during the operation of applying thereinforcement 20, the margin of which is cemented tothe inner' surface of the sewing-rib throughout itslength and lalso to the unraised portion 16 of the channel ap. The shank of the insole, at this stage of' its manufacture, is illustrated by Fig. 5. Thereafter the between-substance 15* between the channel flap slits 18 and 19, is, completely severed from the insole body, see Fig. 6, thus forming an opening or mouth through which access may be had to the pocket 21 between the body p 10 andits reinforcement 20. The size and .nore particularly the forward boundaryy of i5-reinforcement .tcget er and thus forms a this pocket is determined by a line of drythread stitching 22, indicated by. a dotted lineon Figs. 3 yand .4, which extends in a curve transversely across the insole, followinggenerally Athe forward ends of the bonesforming the metatarsal arch of the foot.y This stitchin secures the body and definite limit to the forward extension of the pocket 21.

In the manufacture of flexible shank shoes it is found desirable to continue this stitching rearward throu l1 the length of the channel at the outer slde of the msolc. This continuation of the stitching is shown at 23, just inside the sewing rib 12 and is found to give enu h rigidity or reinforcement to a flexible sank to balance the outward throw of the foot when right and left heels are used, as is contemplated in the construction of the shoes manufactured in accordance with this invention.- The transverse and longitudinal portions of the stitching together form a line simulatin a uestion mark with the tail in the outside c annel (see Figs. 3 and 4).

The formation of the insole having been com leted, as explained, it is incorporated in tie shoe in the usual manner. Upper materials 24 are lasted in over the feather, a welt 26 is inseamed to the sewi -rib 12,

cork or other filling 28 is applied 1f necessary, and an outsole 30 is stitched to the however, that the inseam, between the flap slits 18 and 19, passes throguh the sewingrib above the plane of severance of the between-substance 15* from the body 10, as indicated by the small curved line 27 on Fig. 6. This leaves the margin of the insole, along the inner shank, free to be lifted from the parts beneath it, which are firmly held to the outsole by the inseam and outseam. By reaching into the completed shoe and lifting the insole, as illustrated in Fig. 2, the mouth of the pocket 21 is opened and the shoe salesman may then insert such corrective element or elements as are required to relieve the foot inirmity from which his customer is suffering.

Infirmities of the foot may be placed in two'general grou s, those due to a weakness of the metatarsa arch andthose due to a weakness of the lon tudinal arch. Thel manner-in which the Insole is manipulated to correct some of the foot inirmities resulting from such weak arches will now be described.

Morton toe is a condition rultmg from the fourth metatarsal dropping to a lower plane than is normal for this bone, causing painful pressure on one or more of the planta nerves. Relief from this pressure may be obtained by a wedge under the extreme outer side of the metatarsal pocket suppoifing the fourth metatn-rsal at a oint back of the forward ends or heads o the three central bones which form this pocket. cordingly a pad 32 having the characteristic form shown by Fig. 7 is inserted in the pocket 21 through its opened mouth and then positioned' as shown by dotted lines on Fig, 4 at the outer edge of the metatarsal pocket with a pointed end forward under the weakened bone so that this bone is raised .land supported in its correct relation to the other bones of the metatarsal arch.

Metatarsalgia is the result of weakened muscles `and ligaments that allow the second, third and fourth metatarsals to drop into a lower plane than the lirst and ifth. This also causes painful pressure on one or more of the planta nerves whichv is relieved only by restoring the metatarsal -arch to its natural formation. In correcting this infirmity a remedial pad 34, of the form shown by dotted lines in Fig. 3, is inserted in the pocket 21 and placed centrallv thereof, or

below the central position of the metatarsal pocket, thus supporting and resto-ring the arch.

Pes planus is the well known flat foot and involves a breaking down of the longii tudinal arch of the foot due to weakness of the muscles and ligaments. This condition may be relieved by placing a light, steel shank 36, indicated by dotted lines in F ig. 3, under the cent-ral. portion of this arch. Such a shank may readily be inserted in the proper location in the rear portion of the c pocket 2l and then tacked inplace.

The above explanation will indicate the manner in which various foot'infirmities are corrected or relieved by means of the pres. ent invention, it being understood that the particular infirmities described are only by way of example. Attention is called especially to the size of the pocket 21 i. e. the considerable :area of the face of the insole body over which it extends. This construction provides a single insole pocket which may be utilized for the reception of the different remedial elements for the correction ot' all known foot inirmitie-s, with the ad- \f'antage that a special insole need not be constructed for correcting each infirmity'. Attention is especially called to the fact that all this provision is made in a `regular insole adapted to be incorporated in the shoe during its manufacture, and so constructed that it can be utilized for this purpose after it has been made a part of the shoe. Having the shoe with the novel insole built into it, it only remains to select the proper correct-ive element and then position it correctly within the pocket. The stitching 22 eli'ectually prevents tlie remedial pad from creeping forward and thus becoming misplaced, and the size of the pocket permits ample adjustment to suit the form of the w'earers foot, which may have short toes and a long arch or vice versa. The nature and construction of the pads mayy be varied as becomes desirable.

ln practice excellent results have been obl tained with pads formed from crpe rubber and from felt.

ile access to the pocket 21 may be had more conveniently through a mouth opening ited to the illustrative embodiment except y as specified in the appended claims.

The nature and scope of the invention having been indicated and the preferred constructi-on of the insole, the shoe, and the process of their manufacture having been specifically described, what is claimed as new, is f l. A boot or shoe comprising upper materials and a built-in insole provided Iwith a marginal sewing-rib, said rib being oonnected to the body of the insole except along the shank at one side where it is disconnected therefrom to form the mouth of a pocket beneath said body, an under layer secured to said rib between which and the insole body .said pocket is formed, and means for securing said upper materials to said rib and under layer.

2. A boot or shoe comprising upper materials and a built-in insole provided with a marginal sewing-rib, said rib being connected to the body of the insolefexcept along the shank at one side, an under layer secured to said rib and free from the body shank, a line of stitching across the orepart Jand connecting said body and under layerto limit the forward extension of the pocket formed therebetween to which access is had through the mouth formed by said unconnected rib portion, and means for securingsaid upper materials to said ribA and under layer.

3. A boot or shoe comprising upper :materials, an insole and an outsole, said upper materials being attached tothe insole at its margin, and said insole bein formed of at least two layers of material t e under layer adjacent the outsole being held to the upper materials by securement thereto throughout the `length of its margin, and the upper layer also being marginally secured to the upper materials except for a portion of its edge between the ball and breast lines, whereby, on reaching inside the shoe said upper layer may be lifted from said under layer and thus gain access to the pocket betweensaid layers.

4. A boot or shoe comprising upper materials, an outsole and a laminatedinsole the layers of which are separable to form a pocket between them, and means for securing the upper materials to all the layers of the insole around the forepart and along the outer edge of the shank and only to the layer adjacent to the outsole along the inner edge of the shank, whereby, in the completed shoe, the margin of the upper layer of t e shank where the securement is to thereinforcement only, and then vcompleting the shoe by securing an outsole to said welt. 6. The method of 4making boots and shoes which` includes the steps of preparing a Jaminated insole `with its layers marginally secured together except at'theinside shank` stitching an upper to said insole by a seam through the margin of the upper and both insole layers except at said inside shank, stitchin to the under layer only at said inside s ank,- and then completing the shoe by bottoming.

7. An insole having a marginal sewingrib throughout its shank and fore part, sald I rib being attached to the insole except substantially from the ball line to the breast line at the one edge of its shank, and a sheet of reinforcing material within said rib and secured thereto by its margin but unsecured to the face of the insole at its shank and ball portions forming a pocket having a mouth constituted by the `unattached portion ofsa-id rib.

8. A laminated insole having the layers thereof mar inally connected except at one edge of its s ank from a point adjacent the ball line to a point adjacent the breast line where they'are unconnected, and a line of fastenings across the insole forward of the ball line to determine the forward limit of the pocket formed by said layers and entered through said unconnected margin.v

9. A laminated insole having the' layers thereof marginally connected except at the inner edtge of its shank which is left unconnecte to form a mouth for the pocket between said layers, means to define the forward limit of said pocket, and means to i the ball line, and with its lip only` upturned rearward from said'last named point to. a point near the other end of the breast line, a reinforcement on the ribbed face of the insole marginally secured to the inner face of said rib and to the upper face of the portion of the Hap which still lies in the channel, said portion of the rib opposite the unraised flap being severed from the body of the 4insole at its base to form a mouth for the pocket between said body and reinforcement.

11. The method of making insoles which includes the steps of forming a marginal sewing rib onan insole blank, applying a reinforcement to the ribbed face of the blank and securin said reinforcement t0 the inner face of t e rib, and Severin the rib from the blank along one side o the shank thereof.

12. The method of making insoles which includes the steps of formin a marginal flap and lip on an insole blan slitting the flap transversely a short' distance forward of oneend of the breast line, and substantially at the end of the ball line on the same side; raising the lip and securing the flap thereto, exce) t tween said sits, to orm a sewin -rib; applying a reinforcement to the ri bed face of the insole body and securn its margin to the inner face of the rib an to the unraised portion of the flap; and severing the rib from the body between said transverse flap slits.

13. A welt insole comprising two layers unconnected to each other at the shank and ball portion thereof, and a line of stitching through said layers extending in a curve transversely across the insole forward of theball line following generally the forward ends of thebones of the metatarsal arch of the foot, thereby formin a pocket between said layers adapted to old a remedial pad, access to which is obtained throu h the unconnected shank and one of said lgayers having a mar "nal sewing-rib throughout its forepart and shank.

14. A welt shoe comprising upper` materials; an insole comprising upper and under layers unconnected to each other at the shank and ball portion thereof, the under layer having a marginal sewin -rib throughout its fore art and shank to-w ich the up er materia s are secured, and both layers aving a connecting line of stitching extending in a curve transversely across the insole forward of the ball line following generally the forward ends of the bones of t e metatarsal 4arch of the foot, thereby forming a .pocket between said layers adapted to holda remedial pad access to said pocket for inserting said pad bein obtained by lifting the loose shank of t e upper layer from the under layer held by the upper materials; a welt secured to said sewing-rib; and an outsole secured to said welt.

CUTHBERT S. RICHARDS.

hat ortion of the flap be- 

